We didn’t have a whole lot of time yesterday, but we did manage to hit up Metcalfe rock in the beaver valley for a few short hours. Mid week. How awesome. Of course the bugs are were in full swing after wet days and then warm weather. The dirty parts of Metcalfe (which of course Chris and I gravitate toward) were buzzing with them. Bug spray doesn’t work. But why let a few bugs stop you!
I finally managed to get up Burglass, 5.7 ****. It’s a funny route. I’ve always hated the slick start to it and always started up then got off to go home. I guess my membership to Alt.Rock in Barrie (a great place, check it out) is paying off because not only do I want to climb more, I just want to climb any and every route I see these days. So Burglass ended up being my first route in Ontario this year. And what a great route it is! The gear is solid and it’s nice to have a continuous crack to climb. I don’t agree with Justin’s guidebook’s rating of 5.7 – it’s a 5.6. I think that’s what the original rating was and I’d stick with that. It’s only hard if you make it hard. I did have a quick look at it’s extension (If your day ain’t going right, 5.5). Seemed to be bolted?! Odd as there appears to be plenty of protection on the line.
After rapping off Burglass, we headed over to Boiler Plate Wall for a quick go at Campus Slut, 5.7 ***. Now this does appear to be a real 5.7. I didn’t complete the climb, heading up instead to the right after a few tries. As the Justin’s guidebook says, ‘not as easy as she looks’. What I love about the route description is that it says: if you find it sandbagged, you aren’t crawling and scampering hard enough. I certainly wasn’t. I can see how to move up the line (you’ll need some wide gear) but it’s a heck of a fight if you don’t do it right. And I didn’t. Chris had a good lead on it last year but he was also knocked out of the off width roof yesterday. We blamed the climbers as much as the wet and bugs and after playing on the route decided to head back home.
A short trip but a worthy one. Great fun getting out even for a few hours! A great (and late!!) start to the Ontario season – marred by wet weather, sickness and more wet weather.